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Because of malaria during flood season at Balkh, the regional capital was shifted in the 1870s to Mazar-i Sharif.
In 1911 the Encyclopedia Britannica described a settlement of about 500 Afghan settlers, a colony of Jews and a small bazaar, set in the midst of a waste of ruins and acres of debris. Entering by the west (Akcha) gate, one passed under three arches, in which the compilers recognized the remnants of the former Jama mosque, Jama Masjid. The outer walls (mostly in utter disrepair) were estimated about 6˝ to 7 miles (10.5 to 11.3 km) in perimeter, on the south-east they were set high on a mound or rampart, which indicated a Mongol origin to the compilers.
The fort and citadel to the north-east are built well above the town on a barren mound and are walled and moated. There was, however, little left but the remains of a few pillars. The Sabz mosque, Masjid Sabz, with its green-tiled dome, is said to be the tomb of a Khwaja , Abul Narsi Parsar . Nothing but the arched entrance remained of the former Madrasa.
The town was garrisoned in 1911 by a few hundred irregulars (kasidars), the regular troops of Afghan Turkestan being cantoned at Takhtapul , near Mazar-i-Sharif. The gardens to the north-east contained a caravanserai that formed one side of a courtyard, which was shaded by a group of magnificent chenar trees Platanus orientalis.
A project of modernization was undertaken in 1934, in which eight streets were laid out, housing and bazaars built. Modern Balkh is a center of the cotton industry, of the skins known commonly as "Persian" lamb, and for agricultural produce like almonds and melons. Numerous places of interest are to be seen today aside from the ancient ruins and fortifications:
No professional archaeologist has ever been able to work at Balkh.
The earlier Buddhist constructions have proved more durable than the Islamic period buildings. The Top-i-Rustam is 50 yd (46 m) in diameter at the base and 30 yd (27 m) at the top, circular and about 50 ft (15 m) high. Four circular vaults are sunk in the interior and four passages have been pierced below from the outside, which probably lead to them. The base of the building is constructed of sun-dried bricks about 2 ft (600 mm) square and 4 or 5 in (100 to 130 mm) thick. The Takht-i-Rustam is wedge-shaped in plan, with uneven sides. It is apparently built of pisé mud (i.e. mud mixed with straw and puddled). It is possible that in these ruins we may recognize the Nan Vihara described by the Chinese traveller Hsuan Tsang. There are the remains of many other topes (or stupaStupa is from the Sanskrit and describes a type of Buddhist structure found across the Indian subcontinent and Asia. Stupas began as mounds of rubble housing the relics of Buddha. They later evolved into large hemispherical mounds with features such as ths) in the neighborhood.
The mounds of ruins on the road to Mazar-i Sharif probably represent the site of a city yet older than those on which stands the modern Balkh.